Training For Climbing channel

The video home for, by Eric J. Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”), an internationally renowned author, researcher, inventor, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Visit the links below for training podcasts, pro tips, article archives, and performance nutrition to help you train smarter to climb harder!

Pete Whittaker rope solos El Capitan in under 24 hours

In November 2016, Pete Whittaker became the first person to solo – all free – El Capitan in under 24 hours, finishing in 20 hours and 6 minutes. Rope Solo Free climbing is a sport that few people know about and even fewer people do. We hear from Pete Whittaker, his long time climbing partner Tom Randall and Big wall solo climbing expert Andy Kirkpatrick as they take us through the paces of what it really means to make a rope-solo-free ascent of El Cap.

“The Problem is if Pete pulled it off, nobody would even get it, nobody would understand how hard it was”… “and to do it in a day, is totally insane” – Andy Kirkpatrick

“The ascent made by Pete on Freerider to me is hopefully the dawn of a new style of big wall solo climbing, big wall solo climbing on El Capitan for many years was just aid climbing. Now Pete has proven that it’s possible to do that free climbing, but relatively fast” – Tom Randall

A TWO MUPPETS production

Directed and edited by Adam Bailes
Produced by Pete Whittaker and Adam Bailes
Camera and graphics by Dustin Moore
Additional camera: Jen Randall, Pete Whittaker, Dustin Moore,
Adam Bailes

Thanks to Wild Country and Five Ten

Music (in order of appearance)
– Chris Zabriskie – Oxygen Garden
– Chris Zabriskie – Divider
– Tours – Enthusiast
– Chris Zabriskie – Wonder Cycle
– Chris Zabriskie – Stories About the World That Once Was
– Chris Zabriskie – There’s a Special Place for Some People

Vertigo (32/8b+) Australia’s Hardest Trad Route

Definitely a true test piece, hard, scary, potentially dangerous. It’s got moves that are at least V10 & V11 I would say. The gear is often quite small and intricate to place. If you get it wrong you are potentially going to hit the ground, he has put up the hardest trad route in the country!” Zac Vertrees…

La Sportiva Edelrid climber Dan Fisher has finally sent the long standing Vertigo Project at Namadgi National Park! This proud crack line up a massive boulder was first aid climbed in the 70ies and has had many wanting to free the line, but with no success until now. Thanks to Ben Sanford Media, watch Dan’s journey as he takes on the line and establishes Australia’s hardest trad route to date. Who will be the next climber to send it?

Perfecto Mundo | Stefano Ghisolfi climbs 9B+

Welcome to Perfecto Mundo – an extreme 30-metre Catalonian route that defines the limits of sport climbing. It’s a brutal and unforgiving line that, in parts, allows the use of nothing more than a single middle finger. And it’s a challenge that only a tiny and select group of the world’s greatest climbers has ever conquered. On 7 December 2018, The North Face’s Stefano Ghisolfi earned his membership to this elite club too, sending a perfect repetition of this 9b+ punisher after a solid 32 days at the crag, a year of training, trial, error… and a lot of intense preparation for his all-important middle finger.

Lead falls in climbing gyms – how much forces does it generate? Climbing Science!

What forces are generated during a lead fall at a climbing gym? At Pipeworks climbing gym in Sacramento, CA, Michael Melner, TJ Gillick and Ryan Kowalski do some falling for science. We put dynamometers on the climber, belayer and the quickdraw in order to find out how many kilonewtons we generate. Our gear ratings are more helpful when we understand the forces we generate.

Janja Garnbret vs Jain Kim | Lead Climbing Technique Comparison | Xiamen 2019 | Inzai 2019

check this comparison, these guys have made a good job on put this together, enjoy the climbing.

Janja Garnbret and Jain Kim climbing styles compared in IFSC Climbing World Cup Inzain 2019 and IFSC Climbing World Cup Xiamen 2019.Music: Macifif – HopeMoon – Honest Man – Instrumental Version

Overcoming the Fear of Falling

Excellent video, a little funny but very true and helpful

Fear is what every Rock Climber will have to Face. But why do strong climbers look fearless? Aren’t they afraid to fall at all? After coaching many people on how to overcome the fear of falling, I’m sharing my best tips and tricks.

The goal is not to get rid of the fear of falling. In fact – Fear is just a sensation that arises from your deep animal brain seeing the danger.

You can’t get rid of the sensation – because it’s just chemicals in your body. You need to look at why it was caused. Evolution made us good at survival, we stay away from things that seem dangerous and unknown.

But the problem is that our evolution was not surrounded by technologies like ropes that can save us. So if you haven’t been climbing trees (or being in heights) all your life your subconscious mind doesn’t have enough training to “think” that these climbing situations are safe. Overcoming the fear of falling is not much different from overcoming any other fear. You need to gently put your self into fearful situations and have good outcomes. That will start to reprogram your animal part of the brain.

Step one is to accept that it’s normal and there is nothing wrong with you! And then slowly, gently massage your mind with fear of falling games. I would recommend doing fall practice training in climbing gyms because it’s much safer and you will save your precious vacation trip time. However, if you do it outdoors, make sure to not fall in unsafe situations. Sometimes route setters (bolters) protect hard sections by bolts, but leave easy (Juggy) parts unprotected. If you are not sure if it’s 100% safe fall, climb with someone more experienced! Although I say that you can’t think your self out of fears with the rational (conscious) mind. I experienced big benefits by using meditation.

I made a separate video on this:

Special thanks to my friends: Hanna:

German climbing machine (trusty belayer)

And the best artist friend who draw the pyramid:

And me and me: