Green in the Face 8B by Michaela Kiersch

Green in the Face

Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta that she has done Green in the Face 8B in Castle Rocks and in went down during the first session. The 152 cm, who was #18 in her last Boulder WC in 2018, has been one of the leading rock climbers in the world in the last few years in spite of finishing her University studies and now doing doctoral students.

How can you explain being in such peak performance with your hectic life?
Since the gyms have been closed I’ve been climbing outside in the evenings after school and over the weekends. I follow a really detailed schedule with school, climbing, and mental breaks to keep balance in my life. I think that challenging myself academically makes me work harder in the other areas of my life too.

Article in 8a.nuhttps://www.8a.nu/news/green-in-the-face-8b-by-michaela-kiersch

The Crag – largest collaborative rock climbing & bouldering platform

The website thecrag.com was started in 1999 in Australia by Simon Dale and Campbell Gome as a resource for climbing information in Arapiles and later all of Australia. Despite the fact that the venture almost went bankrupt twice, the team decided to move ahead with the project. Grassroots growth spread it across the globe and the site reached 100,000 page views per month in early 2012.

By now theCrag is the largest rock climbing and bouldering platform worldwide in terms of content with 737,500 routes, 7,900 crags and 1,539,600 ascents logged. Thousands of contributors ensure constant growth of content, volunteers support the project with their creativity and manpower and partners use it for research and integrations, far beyond anything that was imagined in the early days of theCrag.

While theCrag relies heavily on the climbing community, individual contributors and external resources for selected tasks a small team is responsible for the operation and management of the company. The team of theCrag is spread out over 3 continents and brings a variety of experience and backgrounds to the world’s largest rock climbing and bouldering platform.

Shauna Coxsey Reconfirmed for Tokyo 2020

Shauna Coxsey

Sport climber Shauna Coxsey is the latest athlete to be reconfirmed as selected for Team GB for the Tokyo Olympic Games, following its postponement.

Coxsey personally earned a ‘named athlete’ quota place for Tokyo 2020 and retains her place for the Olympic Games, where her sport will debut. Named athlete quota places are those which are specific to the athlete who earned the qualification, and these have been guaranteed by the IOC as secure.

This means that all 21 of the athletes originally nominated to, and selected by, the British Olympic Association (BOA) for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games have been confirmed by their sports as retaining their selections for the Games, now being held in 2021.

The athletes officially selected and named as part of Team GB for the Tokyo Games are from three sports: sailing; canoeing (sprint and slalom), and, sport climbing.

Both sailing (15 athletes) and canoeing (five athletes) have confirmed that their nominations remain unchanged and therefore the originally selected athletes will fill the earned quota places as previously intended.

The COVID-19 pandemic has seen the postponement of the Games until 23 July 2021 and has required the International Olympic Committee (IOC) to reconfirm sport qualification processes, which they did recently.

With over 200 quota places having formally been secured for Team GB by athletes across a number of sports prior to the postponement, the BOA has since asked National Governing Bodies to reconfirm their selection policies.

In respect of sports whose qualification processes were open and ongoing at the time of the postponement, the BOA is now working to support National Governing Bodies to review selection policies based on new qualification events – as they become known – and any amended criteria as laid down by International Federations by 29 June 2021.

Many qualification events have understandably been cancelled and cannot now take place unless there is fair and appropriate access to preparation and training for athletes for those events. The BOA still hopes to take over 370 athletes to the Games.

Team GB Sport Climber, Shauna Coxsey, commented: “With so much uncertainty at the moment, I am relieved to have my place with Team GB reconfirmed for the Olympics. I have adapted my training so I can maintain my form at home, but I cannot wait to be back on the walls and preparing for the Games.”

Mark England, Team GB Chef de Mission for Tokyo 2020, said: “We are extremely pleased that we have been able to reconfirm all previously selected athletes for Tokyo 2020.

“As the first athlete to represent Team GB in sport climbing at the Olympics, we are very excited for the road that lies ahead for the hugely talented Shauna Coxsey. We hope that when the time comes for her to resume training, this reconfirmation will provide Shauna with the opportunity to refocus her preparation for the Games next year. I’m confident it will be a fantastic debut Games for her personally, and for her sport.”

4-Low 8C FA by Daniel Woods

daniel-woods

Daniel Woods reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of 4-Low 8C FA in Valle Bavona which originally was found and cleaned by Giuliano Cameroni and Jimmy Webb. It is a seven move 8B+ link into a six moves 8A+ and it took him three full sessions. Now he is back home and he has posted a strong message in regards to staying healthy and giving positive vibes to all doctors and nurses out there. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith

This was the last boulder I sent on my trip to Ticino. The last 10 days were some of the best climbing days of my life. Each day, the threat of Covid-19 grew and grew though. After sending this bloc at 1 a.m. I went to sleep just dreaming of all the hard blocs to come.

Next day I woke up to news flashes that covid-19 had risen to 2500 cases, 20 min. from the small valley we lived in (1 hour from Milan). A travel ban was put on by the US (not for US citizens though), swiss police enforced social distancing in stores, swiss police were booting out all cars with foreign license plates (I had italian plates and would have to go back to Milan). These were all signs that told me to get the fuck out, so I did.”

Vertigo (32/8b+) Australia’s Hardest Trad Route

Definitely a true test piece, hard, scary, potentially dangerous. It’s got moves that are at least V10 & V11 I would say. The gear is often quite small and intricate to place. If you get it wrong you are potentially going to hit the ground, he has put up the hardest trad route in the country!” Zac Vertrees…

La Sportiva Edelrid climber Dan Fisher has finally sent the long standing Vertigo Project at Namadgi National Park! This proud crack line up a massive boulder was first aid climbed in the 70ies and has had many wanting to free the line, but with no success until now. Thanks to Ben Sanford Media, watch Dan’s journey as he takes on the line and establishes Australia’s hardest trad route to date. Who will be the next climber to send it?

Colin Duffy (16) gets a ticket to Tokyo

Colin, a Colorado native, began climbing at age five. His passion for the sport has led him to multiple podiums, including: 2x Youth Lead World Champion, 9x USA National Champion. Outdoors, he continues to explore new crags around his home state and his favorite areas outside Colorado include Red Rocks and Hueco Tanks.

Colin Duffy

Colin Duffy from USA, who never has done a senior IFSC comp, won the Pan-Am Continental Championship in Los Angeles securing him a ticket to the Olympics. The two times Youth World Champion and 155 cm tall was fifth in Speed, second in Bouldering and won the Lead = 10 points. Zach Galla, also from USA was second with 16 points. In the end, what separated them was one try to bonus.

All Top-4 (from USA) in bouldering topped all three boulders. If Duffy would have needed four tries instead of three to get the bonuses, he would have ended with a total score of 20. In the same way, if Galla would have made the bonuses in three tries instead of four he would have med it to Tokyo. From the video at 2.19, we can also see that Galla unfortunately just slipped in the very start on the final boulder.

Furthermore, if Sean Bailey would have not slipped and made the three tops in three tries instead of four, and Duffy need one more try to the zones, he would have been the lucky guy. Complete results.

Another twist from the results is that Duffy made it to Tokyo as he was quicker than Bailey to top out the Lead route!

Janja Garnbret vs Jain Kim | Lead Climbing Technique Comparison | Xiamen 2019 | Inzai 2019

check this comparison, these guys have made a good job on put this together, enjoy the climbing.

Janja Garnbret and Jain Kim climbing styles compared in IFSC Climbing World Cup Inzain 2019 and IFSC Climbing World Cup Xiamen 2019.Music: Macifif – HopeMoon – Honest Man – Instrumental Version

The Big Island 8C by Coudert Camille

Coudert Camille started climbing at age 18 and only indoors for the first 18 months. Then he started logging boulders in Fontainebleau in 2015 (from 5b) and eight months later he did his first 8A. The following years his impressive progress has continued and now he just did The Big Island 8C, in just six sessions.

At the moment he has three 8C projects and says he is not far from doing No Kpote Only 9A. He will also put on a knee pad and start working the sit project of The Big Island (9A?).

How can you explain your great progress and what did you do before climbing?
I have never been sporty. I just tried different sports without ever getting hooked; tennis, rugby and swimming. I tried climbing by chance and I immediately hooked and since then I have always been motivated to progress. Each year I always set two extreme projects well above my level that I try seriously and in parallel, I alternate the sessions between extreme and easier projects. Besides that, I do volume sessions of easy boulders.

Sport Climbing Makes its Olympic Debut

with athletes winning gold thanks to the power and strength in their fingertips.

Sport Climbing

Tokyo 2020 competition animation “One Minute, One Sport”

We will show you the rules and highlights of Sport Climbing in one minute. Whether you are familiar with Sport Climbing or want to know more about it.

Overview

Sport Climbing takes the challenge of scaling steep ascents to a whole new level. Using a range of hand and foot holds of different shapes and sizes, climbers put their skills and strength into practice on a vertical wall. The wall may feature varying angles of either positive (known in climbing as a slab) or negative (steep, overhanging) sections.

The sport will make its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020 and will feature three disciplines: Speed, Bouldering and Lead. Speed climbing pits two climbers against each other, both climbing a route on a 12m wall. In Bouldering, athletes scale a number of fixed routes on a 4m wall in a specified time. In Lead, athletes attempt to climb as high as possible on a wall measuring over 12m in height within a specified time. At the Games, each climber will compete in all three disciplines, and the final rankings will be determined by multiplying the placement in each discipline, with the athletes achieving the lowest scores winning medals.

In some disciplines, climbers attach safety ropes; however, no other equipment is permitted, and competitors must climb using only their bare hands and climbing shoes. The sport requires strength, flexibility and skill together with careful advance planning: the first ever medallists will all possess this unique combination of physical and mental capability and decisiveness.

International Federation: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Event Programme

  • Combined (Men/Women)

Three disciplines, one goal

A variety of techniques are required for success in sport climbing:

Speed

Two climbers secure safety ropes to themselves and attempt to scale a 12m-high wall, set at an angle of 95 degrees, faster than their opponent on identical routes. Winning times for men’s events tend to be around the five- to six-second mark, while women’s events are usually won in around seven or eight seconds. A false start results in instant disqualification.

Bouldering

In Bouldering, athletes climb as many fixed routes on a 4m-high wall, equipped with safety mats, as they can within four minutes. The routes vary in difficulty and climbers are not permitted to practise climbing them in advance. When a climber grabs the final hold at the top of a route with both hands, they are deemed to have completed it. Climbers tackle the wall without safety ropes and can try a route again if they fall during their initial attempt.

The walls used for bouldering present a range of challenges, with overhangs and some holds so small that they can only be held by the fingertips. Climbers must plan each move carefully, thinking about which hand and which foot to place in the next holds, while constantly being aware of the time limit. The physical and mental dexterity required for success is extraordinary.

Lead

Lead involves athletes attempting to climb as high as they can on a wall measuring more than 12m in height within six minutes. The climbers use safety ropes and attach the rope to quickdraws (equipment that allows the rope to run freely while leading) along the route. When a climber attaches their rope to the top quickdraw, they have completed the climb. If a climber falls, the height (hold number) attained is recorded. There are no re-climbs.

If two or more athletes complete the climb or reach exactly the same height, the fastest to do so is declared the winner. This is a demanding whole-body activity and dynamic climbing techniques are to the fore.

To prevent athletes gaining an advantage from watching others scaling the bouldering and lead climbing walls before them, each climber is kept away from the climbing wall before their turn and given just a few minutes to examine the wall and the routes prior to starting.

Dreamtime stand 8A+ by Irina Kuzmenko

Dreamtime stand 8A+
Dreamtime stand 8A+

Irina Kuzmenko, who took the bronze in the Euro Ch. last year, has done Dreamtime stand in Cresciano. “ Can’t believe its happened! Did it from two small crimps without heel hooks. Honestly by my feelings with two crimps this is 8B. It was a super hard journey with blood, tears and up and downs :). It means a lot to me. I can’t describe how happy I’m. “ (c) Leo Zhukov