Understandably, I just had to return back to Roviště and finish the big project. As you could see in last week’s episode, I got quite close, falling off in the last hard move before the route gets easier, but there is still one more 7C+ boulderproblem guarding the anchor. To make things more dramatic, conditions were not ideal with continuous rain showers throughout the whole day. Check out the epic circumstances while finally making the first ascent of Bohemian Rhapsody, the hardest route in Bohemia.
Covid-19 has all of us looking for ways to keep training while staying at home and being socially responsible. There is a lot of information, including the TrainingBeta At-Home Training Program, out there right now to help you train at home no matter how limited your equipment is. With all of this information available, there’s no reason you can’t find a way to keep training and progressing towards your climbing goals.
That said, we are getting a lot of questions from route climbers about how to go about training endurance from home. I get it. You trained hard all winter. You’re feeling fit and ready to get after it on your projects this spring. Then, bam. The coronavirus hit and you’re stuck at home feeling your hard-won endurance slipping away.
This situation sucks. No way around it.
While I fully understand where this sentiment comes from and am even in a similar situation with my personal climbing, I don’t think it’s the best way to think about training during quarantine, and it’s leading to a lot of unnecessary anxiety and missed training opportunities.
To get this discussion started, I’m just going to say it: You’re going to lose endurance during this pandemic.
And you shouldn’t worry about it.
Now, I know you’re not going to just take my word for it, so let’s take a closer look.
Why You’re Going to Lose Endurance
The main reason why you are going to lose endurance during these times is because of equipment issues. This should be fairly obvious. Without access to outdoor climbing or to the nice lead walls at your normal climbing gym, you just aren’t going to get in your normal volume of pitches. If you’re normally a weekend warrior who climbs outside on the weekends and indoors on Tuesdays and Thursdays, we could be talking about twenty or more pitches a week. That’s a lot of lost volume and there’s really no getting around that in our current situation.
But what about maintaining your endurance with the equipment you do have available at home?
Let’s imagine for a second that you a really great home training situation with a home wall, a hangboard, a good weight training setup, and plenty of motivation. Even with this great setup, which most people don’t currently have, you are still going to run into equipment issues trying to train endurance. Let’s take one piece of equipment at a time.
Most home bouldering walls are steep and small. The combination of both of these features makes them much more suited to hard bouldering than endurance circuits. Yes, with big enough holds, you can set up longer circuits on your home wall, but unless you are a fairly advanced climber (say 5.12+ and up) it’s still going to be hard to stay on a 45-degree wall doing lap after lap of your circuit to effectively train endurance.
Neely limit bouldering on her recently built home wall.
There are ways to train endurance on the hangboard. To do so, however, you need to be able to manipulate the intensity and this means you’re also going to need a pulley system and weights to use as assistance so you can hang at less than 100% body weight.
Personally, I’ve got several issues with training endurance on the hangboard. First, it’s heinously boring. No way around that one. Second, even though the hanging you’d be doing is pretty low intensity, adding that much hanging into your training is going to place a lot of additional strain on your shoulders, elbows, and fingers. If you have a good training background on the hangboard, I do think it can be done safely, but even in that situation, I don’t think it’s the best use of your time. More on that later.
Whether you have a nice weight setup or are just using bodyweight exercises to train at home, neither of these training modalities offers effective endurance training options for climbing. The reason for this is that when we talk about the physical component of climbing endurance, we are really talking about the capacity of the forearms, not the general aerobic endurance required to do things like run for long periods of time. Working up to being able to do longer/harder sessions with these training modalities is going to increase your general work capacity, which is a good thing, but it isn’t going to prevent you from getting pumped next time you’re able to get out climbing.
Nik Berry high off the deck and eyeing up the crux move of Planet Earth 5.14a at the VRG | Photo: Matt Pincus | @mpincus87
Why Losing Endurance is Ok
Ok, that’s the “bad” news. Now let’s look at why this inevitable drop in your endurance levels is ok.
You’ve Been Here Before (even if you don’t know it…)
The first reason to not freak out about losing your endurance during the pandemic is a common sense one. You’ve lost your endurance and gotten it back before.
Climbers who switch between styles know this already. Spend the winter focused on bouldering and you’re going to get pumped when you get back on a rope in the spring. The good news is once you are getting pitches in consistently you won’t be getting pumped for long and you’ll still feel the positive strength/power benefits of your winter bouldering. The same can be true during this period of social distancing.
I know that those of you route climbers who would rather not climb than go bouldering probably don’t believe me. If you’re one of those climbers, really think about it. Do you have top-level endurance year-round? I doubt it. Far more likely is that it ebbs and flows based on your climbing seasons and projects. What about injury? Most climbers have had to take some time off due to injury. When you were able to climb again were you as fit as ever? Probably not, but you worked through it and have sent routes since then. All of these scenarios should also show you that it isn’t that hard to regain endurance.
Transient vs Persistent Adaptations
The second reason why a temporary drop in your endurance levels is ok has to do with the type of adaptations endurance really is. Endurance in climbing is primarily a metabolic adaptation, meaning that it is gained by optimizing the use of certain energy systems in the forearms.
This is obviously an oversimplification. For the purposes of this discussion, however, all you need to remember is that metabolic adaptations are more transient, while attributes like strength, which depends on structural and neurological adaptations, are more persistent. To sum all this up, endurance can be gained and lost quickly while strength is gained and lost more slowly. You probably won’t feel super fit your first day out sport climbing, but that’s ok. Once you get back into the swing of climbing outside, your endurance will come back quickly.
Endurance is Style and Skill Dependent
The final reason why it’s ok to let your endurance levels drop right now is that endurance is dependent on both style and skill. What I mean here is there’s a lot more that goes into being able to climb a challenging-for-you route than just the capacity of your forearms. You need to be able to climb calmly above a bolt, have your beta dialed in, and generally be able to climb confidently and efficiently. These are all skills that take practice. You aren’t going to fully forget how to do them while you’re staying at home, but you are going to get rusty. Just like your first outdoor days of a normal season, it’s going to take some days/pitches to get back into the flow of things. What this means is that you’re going to need to spend some time getting back into outdoor climbing before you can really get after it on your project. Those days sound like a pretty good time to regain your endurance to me.
Estaban Lahoz entering the first crux of Negocié 8b in Siurana | Photo: Matt Pincus | @mpincus87
An Opportunity: Don’t Miss It
There you have it. You’re going to lose some endurance and that’s ok. You don’t need to worry about training it if you don’t have the proper equipment to do so. What should you be doing, though? Should route climbers be doing anything they possibly can to maintain as much endurance as they can or are there more effective uses of their training time and energy?
I would argue that, at best, trying to maintain your endurance right now is like running on a hamster wheel. You’re going to put in a lot of effort, but you’re not really going to get anywhere. The bigger problem here isn’t the wasted effort, but it’s the other training opportunities that you are missing as a result.
Rather than asking yourself, “How can I maintain as much endurance as possible?” when we’ve already established that losing some is inevitable and not a big deal, a better question to ask is, “What can I focus on training where I can really make some progress and move the needle?” No matter what kind of climber you are, the obvious place to start is strength.
Strength is the foundational physical attribute and is a prerequisite for developing high levels of climbing-specific power, power endurance, and endurance. Do yourself a favor and use this time to get strong. Doing so may not help your climbing performance the first day back at the crag, but it will help you dramatically in the long run.
If you don’t know where to start, the TrainingBeta At-Home Training Program Ebook is a good option. It gives you both a wide variety of exercises to choose from, options for different amounts of available equipment, and a framework for understanding how to train strength.
No matter how you end up training, remember the goal should be to get stronger and build a good foundation of general strength that will serve you well when we get back to climbing.
Cover Photo: Sean Bailey fighting the pump on Joe Mama 5.15a | Photo: Matt Pincus | @mpincus87
About The Author, Matt Pincus
Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber from Jackson, Wyoming. He spends most of his time on the road living out of his van. Matt is responsible for most of the blog posts and social media posts for TrainingBeta and is our head trainer. He’s a seasoned climber and coach who can provide you with a climbing training program from anywhere in the world based on your goals, your abilities, the equipment you have, and any limitations you have with time or injuries.
Train With Matt
Matt will create a custom training program designed to help you target any weaknesses so you can reach your individual goals. Whether you need a 4-week program to get you in shape for an upcoming trip or a 6-month program to make gradual strength gains, he’ll create a weekly schedule of climbing drills, strength exercises, finger strength workouts, and injury prevention exercises tailored to your situation.
The New Deal in Joshua Tree National Park is the first 5.14a established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31st, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for the New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated the New Deal in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Now almost a decade has passed and the route has yet to be climbed successfully again. The New Deal was one of the very first rappel bolted routes in Joshua Tree and marks the beginning of the sport climbing revolution in the California. This did not sit well with Stonemaster legend John Bachar who promptly chopped all the bolts on the route. Cosgrove offered to settle it over a parking lot fist fight but Bachar declined. John Bachar later apologized and gave Cozzy nice bolts to fix the route. The New Deal was a visionary rock climb for its time and still stands as one of the hardest routes in Joshua Tree National Park today.
Anna started climbing at the age of six and quickly started to compete in the Austrian national team, notching up impressive performances at international events. Now her success continues with alpinism and new big wall experience. Anna Stöhr – The movie about her “Evolution” from boulder championship to professional alpinist
We when with family and friends to celebrate my birthday to the Glass House Mountains. first time there and I love it, nice rock and the weather was really good. After climbing at Kangaroo Point going there feel safer and the bolts close it to each other, not so scary to lead. We did some easy ones but definitely, I want to come back to try some of the hard routes.
The classic American bouldering movie that helped launch the bouldering revolution. Follow Chris Sharma, Obe Carrion, and friends on a two month road trip across the west. Check out the country’s best bouldering areas, and witness first ascents of dozens of now legendary “Sharma Problems.” Features Castle Rock, LakeTahoe, Priest Draw, Black Mountain, The Tramway, Squamish, Humboldt, and The X-Games.
The video home for TrainingForClimbing.com, by Eric J. Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”), an internationally renowned author, researcher, inventor, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Visit the links below for training podcasts, pro tips, article archives, and performance nutrition to help you train smarter to climb harder!
In November 2016, Pete Whittaker became the first person to solo – all free – El Capitan in under 24 hours, finishing in 20 hours and 6 minutes. Rope Solo Free climbing is a sport that few people know about and even fewer people do. We hear from Pete Whittaker, his long time climbing partner Tom Randall and Big wall solo climbing expert Andy Kirkpatrick as they take us through the paces of what it really means to make a rope-solo-free ascent of El Cap.
“The Problem is if Pete pulled it off, nobody would even get it, nobody would understand how hard it was”… “and to do it in a day, is totally insane” – Andy Kirkpatrick
“The ascent made by Pete on Freerider to me is hopefully the dawn of a new style of big wall solo climbing, big wall solo climbing on El Capitan for many years was just aid climbing. Now Pete has proven that it’s possible to do that free climbing, but relatively fast” – Tom Randall
A TWO MUPPETS production
Directed and edited by Adam Bailes Produced by Pete Whittaker and Adam Bailes Camera and graphics by Dustin Moore Additional camera: Jen Randall, Pete Whittaker, Dustin Moore, Adam Bailes
Thanks to Wild Country and Five Ten
Music (in order of appearance) – Chris Zabriskie – Oxygen Garden – Chris Zabriskie – Divider – Tours – Enthusiast – Chris Zabriskie – Wonder Cycle – Chris Zabriskie – Stories About the World That Once Was – Chris Zabriskie – There’s a Special Place for Some People
Daniel Woods reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of 4-Low 8C FA in Valle Bavona which originally was found and cleaned by Giuliano Cameroni and Jimmy Webb. It is a seven move 8B+ link into a six moves 8A+ and it took him three full sessions. Now he is back home and he has posted a strong message in regards to staying healthy and giving positive vibes to all doctors and nurses out there. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith
“This was the last boulder I sent on my trip to Ticino. The last 10 days were some of the best climbing days of my life. Each day, the threat of Covid-19 grew and grew though. After sending this bloc at 1 a.m. I went to sleep just dreaming of all the hard blocs to come.
Next day I woke up to news flashes that covid-19 had risen to 2500 cases, 20 min. from the small valley we lived in (1 hour from Milan). A travel ban was put on by the US (not for US citizens though), swiss police enforced social distancing in stores, swiss police were booting out all cars with foreign license plates (I had italian plates and would have to go back to Milan). These were all signs that told me to get the fuck out, so I did.”